Understanding Brow Health

To deliver the best results, you must be able to recognise when brow hairs are healthy - and when they’re damaged. Brow lamination works by breaking down the disulfide bonds in the cortex of the hair, which allows it to be reshaped. This is a powerful chemical process, so understanding the signs of damage and the potential long-term effects is essential for maintaining your clients’ brow health.

By the end of this section, you will be able to:

✔️ Spot the difference between healthy and damaged brow hair

✔️ Understand what causes damage before, during, and after lamination

✔️ Monitor for signs of over-processing during treatment

✔️ Recognise the long-term effects of repeated lamination

Common Causes of Brow Damage

Over-Processing

• Leaving lifting solution on too long, breaking too many disulfide bonds
• Not adjusting timing for the client’s hair thickness or porosity
• Repeating lamination too soon, before hair has recovered
  

Incorrect Product Use

• Using lash lift products on brows (often too strong for delicate brow hairs)
• Expired or improperly stored solutions reducing effectiveness and increasing irritation risk
• Skipping patch tests, raising the chance of allergic reactions or sensitivity
  

Poor Client Aftercare

• Rubbing or sleeping on brows within 24 hours of treatment
• Applying active skincare (like acids or retinols) too soon afterward
• Skipping post-care nourishment, leaving brows dry and vulnerable
  
  

Long-Term Effects of Repeated Brow Lamination

If brows are laminated too frequently or with incorrect technique, hair health can decline over time. Long-term effects may include:

Alteration of Hair Structure

• Repeated chemical processing weakens the cortex, changing brow texture.
• Brows may become more brittle, coarse, or wiry after multiple treatments.

Increased Hair Porosity

• Over-laminated brows absorb moisture quickly but lose it just as fast, leading to dryness and fragility.
• High porosity also makes it harder for clients to hold onto tint or nourishing serums.

Risk of Chronic Over-Processing

• Frequent or poorly timed laminations cause lasting damage:
  
  • Hair snapping, thinning, or patchiness
  • Reduced elasticity and flexibility
  • Weakened bonds that resist styling
    
    

Reduced Brow Cycle Longevity

• Excessive lamination can shorten the natural growth cycle, causing hairs to shed faster.
• This makes it harder for brows to appear full and healthy long-term.

Increased Sensitivity to External Factors

• Laminated brows are more vulnerable to UV exposure, skincare actives, and heat styling.
• Without nourishment, the cuticle remains weakened, leaving hair prone to dryness and breakage.